TEN WAYS TO STEAL A CAR by THREAT TO SOCIETY
--------------------------------------------

So you wanna be a carthief? Start by taking on a good lawyer. And, eh, don't
steal a car when you are hitch hiking. Imagine this: a hospitable chauffeur
stops to piss against a tree and the stupid moron leaves his keys on the
ignition.

Resist to the seduction, because that man can give a personality description
to the cops, and that can be fatal! Don't force the driver to get out of his
car either, because that's a violence delict or something, and that would make
only make thing more complicated for your lawyer. You get much more fun out of
stealing a car when the owner is standing right next to it.

For instance: you see a man waiting in his 'till the grass turns blue. Get him
out with some fake story ("Sir, I believe you have a flat tire", works
wonders). While he rushes to the back of his car to take a look at the
catastrophe, you jump in his car and drive away. EVERYBODY leaves his keys
on the ignition when he's waiting for something.

COWARDS
-------

When you see an unmanned car which you'd love to take for a drive, first of
all, check if there's a dog in it. If there is, forget about it! Dogs in cars
are the best way to scare of thieves. A dog thinks of the car as his territory
and it's a known fact that dogs have the nasty habit of protecting their
territory by biting and stuff.

If there isn't a dog in the car, look if there's a sticker of a stupid
screaming alarmsystem on the windshield. If there is, then you, as a rookie,
should leave the car undisturbed. Professional car-thieves have less trouble
with it.

There are however REAL stickers and FAKE stickers. A lot of chauffers think
they can scare thieves away with such a fake sticker, but as a masterthief,
you studied these thing and you can thee the difference. Fake stickers don't
scare you. However, if it is a real sticker, you're still sitting on roses,
because the sticker also names the brand of the alarm system and of course
you, as a master thief know all the different brands and systems. The owner
actually HELPS you stealing his car, now isn't that a nice gesture.

If it's an alarmsystem you happen to know, you simply disconnect it and you
drive of with the wanted car. If it's not, don't be sad, you just go and steal
another one. But even as a pro you have to watch out with real stickers
because there are cowards who put the sticker of another brand on their
windshield. BOO! LAME! When you start messing around, you immediately notice
the difference but you got a BIG change the alarm is already screaming his
guts out by now.

The biggest cowards are of course the assholes who DO have an alarm, but DON'T
let you know that with a sticker. "Great!", you think and you try breaking in
and the fuckin' alarm goes off: scares the hell out of you! In general, it's
easy for a master thief to make the sirene to shut up. With some more
expensive models it isn't: there is a emergency battery in a high protected
box, so the sirene starts (or keeps) screaming as soon as you cut the
maincircuit. As a master thief, you have to make a shortcut or give a high
voltage injection to make the thing shut up. Remote controls are very popular
at the moment with the more expensive cars. They work like the remote of a tv,
and thanks the central locking system it locks everything that was not locked
yet. When the absent minded owner opens the door with his keys in the morning,
the car starts yelling. When YOU try to open the door WITHOUT the keys in the
EVENING, the damn thing starts screaming as well. BOO! LAME!

As student-car-thief, you're gonna have to study a bit and learn which car
contains such systems. In your local thieves guild, you'll find some nice
folders on that topic. That way you'll find out in no time at which frequency
those things work. If you have a degree in electronics, you'll even be able
to build a scannersystem which will help you cracking the codes of the remote
control (or you can just go to England where you can LEGALLY buy such
gadgets!). The master thieves are already able to do that now.

DON'T STEAL A WHEELCHAIR
------------------------

Check if the soon-to-be-stealed-car is one of a handicapped person. Normally,
that's indicated by a blue sticker with a wheelchair on it on the windshield.
Don't steal such a car. Now, respect, but those cars are individually adjusted
and simply uncontrollable by your average, non-handicapped masterthief.

You can't sell such cars either.

Fortunately, there are no such things as fake blue stickers, because that's
illegal. If you are not convinced, just take a look at the steering-wheel and
the pedals.

Convinced? Good. Always check if there aren't any codes etched in the windows.
If you just wanna go joy riding, you don't have to worry about it, but if you
wanna make a living by selling stolen cars, those codes will just give you a
lot of trouble.

As soon as the owner reports the theft the codes are spreaded everywhere and
when the innocent buyer goes to the garage, the question will pop "Where did
you get this car, sir?" You won't find a fence for a car with window codes
(except if you export it to foreign countries where nobody gives a fuck about
those codes anyway) so you will have to replace all the windows and your local
garage-keeper will find that rather "strange".

THE DAMN GEAR-LEVER
-------------------

What else do you, as a rooke, have to pay attention to? Look inside. Maybe the
wheel is locked with a wheel pedalhook. For the rookie, this is usually a BIG
problem. But wait 'till you're a masterthief, you'll laugh with things like
that!

The wheel-dashboard-lock, brightly colored so you can see it very well (to
scare of the thieves), is even worse, but the masterthieves can get ridd of
it, however not without damaging the car. Very unpleasant, but not unbreakable
(the trickbox of the masterthief doesn't appear to have a bottom), is the
handbrake lock.

Pedal locks are also very annoying, but they're also annoying for the owner,
because he has to install 'em BEFORE he exits the car, so I trust you'll never
encounter them in your entire career.

Same goes for the tire locks, which can totally inmobilize the car, you can't
even tow it away! There is, however, something new, that even the master
thieves can't break, the so called GEARLEVER lock, this makes sure that you
can't change gears. If you REALLY wanted that car, you can always have it
towed away. In the garage, they can break the lock with expensive material
and a LOT of patience. But, don't worry, the masterthieves will soon find an
easy solution to the GEARLEVER lock problem.

OPEN UP!
--------

OK, no dogs, no stickers, no codes, no locks. Check if the door is locked. If
it isn't, you can usually enter safely. If you're lucky, the keys may still
be in the ignition. Situations like these are easy to find on driveways in
area with lots of beautiful villa's. (See in our next issue: 'Ten ways to
steal your modern art at rich peoples houses') If the door is locked, you, as
a rookie, encounter the first problem. "Let's smash the window!", you may
think.

DON'T! If you're gonna do some joy riding, some cop will notice the broken
window and force you to pull over. If you wanna make some money by selling
the car you have to replace the window first. Besides, smashing the window
is much more suspicious than forcing the lock. Smashing a window is really
amateurish. Shame on you! Opening a door without a key is child's play. An
expirienced thief can open a door just as fast with as without the key,
without damaging the car.

Useful tools are screwdrivers and/or steel-wires. Practice on your own car
for several weeks. In the summertime, a lot of drivers leave the window or
the roof a little bit open. Use your steel-wire to pull the lock of the roof
et voila, you can enter.

THE RIDICULOUS WHEEL LOCK
-------------------------

Ok, no dogs, no stickers, no codes, no locks and you've opened the door. Now
get in the car and check if the keys are still in the ignition. It happens
very often that retarted drivers smash their door in the lock with their
keys still in the car.

Damn, no key. The rookie encounters two problems: break the wheel lock and
start the engine. Look at the tires, the wheel lock is usually locked when
the tires are straight. If they're not, pull the steering wheel very hard.
Now the lock should be broken. If this doesn't work, you'll have to use
something heavier, like a lever. Use your imagination and practice on your
own car for a couple of weeks.

OK, you broke the wheel lock. Well done. Make sure the lock is broken
completely or you may encounter problems while trying to steer. Not
intresting, especially not while driving at ridiculously high speeds.

FLIPPER: THE FLIPPIN DOLPHIN
----------------------------

Step 2: Getting the engine started. The principle is easy: connect the
contactwires and the connect the wires of the starting-engine. You need the
know where you find these in the brand and type of car you want to steal. Try
and find them in your own car and practice for several weeks.

Masterthieves who are specialised in one type of car, can start a car faster
than you can say it. It could happen that the motor doesn't start or that you
just can't get any power at all. Bad luck. The owner of the car probably
installed his own little security system. Take a look under the driversseat,
under the passengersseat and under the dashboard. There should be a switch
somewhere. When you've found it, do the obvious: flip it! Now try again, the
engine should start now.

DO YOU SMELL BACON?
-------------------

Congratulations! You just ripped your first car! How does it feel? Is the
adrenalin pumpin? Great! Now KEEP CALM! I know it's hard to control yourself
when you're behind the wheel of a shining red Ferrari, but don't go racing
at 250 MPH, because for some strange reason, pigs don't like that.

They'll try to stop you and you'll come up to a point where that lawyer I
talked about comes in handy. A true masterthief is always in complete mental
control, you know yin, yang, that kinda shit.

But don't go to the other extreme either: don't drive at speed even your
grandma exceeds or don't go looking around real nervous, you may just well
write 'this car is stolen' all over your face. Just act normal, or if your
normal behaviour conforms to that described above, don't.

Wanna go for a joy-ride? Have fun.

Just choose a nice quiet place to dump the baby afterwards, say, the canal?
If you wanna sell it, check out your local thieves guild, you should find a
nice fence there. Keep in mind that not everyone is as honest as you (hah!).
Some of the people you'll meet at your local thieves guild are straight
crooks and they'll try rip you off. Alas, the path of a masterthief does not
go over roses.

----- was ripped from a diskmag called Scenial issue 4 (scenial4.zip) -----

--------------------------
Automotive Locking Systems
--------------------------

Automotive locks vary considerably in the types of locking mechanisms and
lock arrangements. There are many other methods of gaining access to an
automobile which are quite often quicker and easier than attempting to pick the
lock.

Probably the most common point of entry is the wing or vent window, or, in
the newer models, the rubber molding. Anyone intending to engage in automobile
lock work (or desiring to save approximately fifty dollars or more in service
calls) will need some special tools. Both the curve and length of tools are
important to their overall effectiveness.

The tool being used should first be lubricated with a glycerine-based hand
lotion or hand cleaner before inserting it through the weatherstripping. This
not only makes the tools work easier, but helps prevent scarring, tearing or any
other damage to the weatherstripping.

To open most front wing windows, take the lever latch tool and insert it
through the weatherstripping between the wing window and the window trim.
Manipulate the tool by controlling the depth of penetration along the curve. At
the same time use a rocking action to move the window lock into the unlocked
position.

One other type of wing window lock has a lever latch equipped with a
plunger at the pivot of the latch. The plunger deadlocks the latch against
rotation, unless the plunger is first pushed in and held until the initial stage
of rotation has been accomplished. This requires that another tool be inserted
through the weatherstripping and the door window to depress the plunger and hold
it in that position while the other tool is used to rotate the latch. Normally,
the tool used for depressing the deadlocking plunger has a slight curve at the
tip. The tool's only purpose is to depress the plunger.

Another means of access, when the door window is fully raised and the door
is locked, consists of inserting a stiff bent wire, and using it directly on the
locking mechanism. Tripping of the lock mechanism may often be done by pulling
up on the wire once the tip of the wire has been positioned under the lock
linkage. At other times, the bent tip of the wire must be pulled up against the
linkage and then rotated to trip the locking mechanism. With practice one gets
the feel of what is required to open the door.

Automobiles using a rocker type of locking mechanism may be tripped by
using a thin piece of flat spring steel stock. First, coat the tool with a
glycerine-based hand lotion or hand cleaner to protect the trim and rubber
molding. Insert the tool next to the glass or between the
weatherstripping/molding and the metal of the door. Feel for the lock linkage
with the notched end of the tool, then move the linkage up and down until the
lock moves into the unlocked position.

Another avenue of access to most automobiles is through the firewall,
reaching the door locks with a long stiff wire to push the lock button into the
unlocked position.

Since automobile door locks on most newer models are normally held in place
by a retainer clip, as a last resort the lock can be punched out. First, insert
a bent piece of wire into the keyway and bind it to prevent the lock mechanism
from falling into the door frame. Once out, the automobile can be opened by
pushing up on the linkage attached to the lock mechanism.

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